Two Weeks on

 Two weeks ago, I was in Central Outback Queensland.  It was stinking hot, dry, barren and hilly.  This week I am in the Upper Yarra Valley region of Victoria and have done 200kms+ on the Warburton rail trail and connecting roads.  It is freezing cold, wet, lush and flat.  Only in Australia!

Warburton Rail Trail - Far more civilised than a couple of weeks ago.

Still very cold in the mornings, mist and frost this morning.

Can't remember seeing one of these in Monto.

A side trip off the trail 

O'Shannassy Aquaduct Trail - a stunning bike ride through the eucalypt forest starting in the hills behind Warburton and heading toward Melbourne. 

More of the Aquaduct Trail - super stuff.

Summary

Distance - 630kms

Riding Time - 38 hours

Ascent - 2999 m

The people

In 7 days on the road, I had been shown great courtesy by other motorists, who often provide some encouragement.  Every where you go, people stop to find out where you've been, where you are going, what on earth you were thinking or what midlife crisis you are dealing with.  The blokes in the pub buy you beers (and give you advice), as do the publicans.  They give you a lift back to where you are camping.  People in caravan parks walk over to chat, drive you in to town or make you a cup of tea.  They charge your phone, give you good drinking water or offer to feed you.  A cocky at Tansey pulled over in front of me and stopped his ute to have a yarn. At first I thought he might have been an axe murderer but was a just a local bloke with time on his hands.   Told me where I could get good quality rainwater (at the back of the bowls club).  What a great way to get around and meet people.

The only trouble I had was when I got back on to the Sunshine Coast, and was between Yandina and home.  One moron through a half full drink bottle at me, thankfully flying between my wheels and not hitting them.  The other was just a couple of young morons throwing abuse.  

The route

The route is well suited to touring. Any cyclist of average fitness with a bit of determination could complete it. There are few tough climbs (especially if you are carrying 30kgs of gear), but generally it's just rolling hills.  Towns are at regular intervals and offer all the services you need. If you are going to camp in caravan parks like I did (or stay in motels), some of the days are a bit short.  I was aiming for 5 to 6 hours in the saddle at 18 km/hr. That left time in the afternoon to set up camp, do washing plus get around and meet a few people.

I reckon it would best be done in April/May or September/October and ridden south to north.  That way you'll get to use the prevailing south easterlies and it shouldn't be too hot.

The roads

The Burnett is safe for cycling.  Traffic is light, there are a few trucks however.  It's important to have a mirror and you need to know when to get off the road.  Road quality varies but if you have a mountain bike or hybrid, there shouldn't be issues.  I wouldn't do this trip with a road bike.  There are too many potholes and deteriorating shoulders to dodge, making it unsafe.  

The machinery

The Canondale MTB was faultless.  New chain, cassette and rings we're adjusted perfectly.  Not even a puncture (Schawble Marathon Supremes) which is remarkable given the glass, wire, prickles and crap on and off the roads. Didn't even need to grease my chain.

The trailer tracked perfectly behind the bike.   On the flat, you don't notice it.  No issues even at 70 km/hr.  With a lower centre of gravity and spreading the weight over an extra wheel, a trailer for me is a much better option than panniers.

Day 7 - Kilkivan to Mudjimba

Distance - 132 km

Average Speed - 20.1 km/hr

Ascent - 533 m

View the ride here: Ride Link: http://cyclemeter.com/4539622a02fdb662/Cycle-20131026-0454?r=x

I enjoyed better conditions and some improved fitness today.

Left Kilkivan a bit before 5am.  It reminded me of a Darwin dry season morning - about 18 degrees, not a breath of wind, a little humidity.  Perfect cycling weather.  It's a cliche, but watching the sun rise over the range also added to the experience.

If I was going to make it back today, it was important to make good time in the first leg to Gympie. Kilkivan is a hilly place, but felt strong.  A slight down hill on the Wide Bay Highway (excellent road) all the way to the Bruce Highway had me in Gympie in good time after about 2.75 hours riding.  The 12 kms from the Wide Bay turnoff on the Bruce Highway to Gympie was actually pretty good. A lot more traffic than the Burnett Highway but a big verge to work with.  The trucks actually make the cycling easier as you work into their draft. 

This was all the encouragement I needed to take the Bruce the entire way rather than work through the Noosa hinterland.

Had arranged to meet with Tracie for lunch at Cooroy, given that is where I expected to be at lunch time.  Was making really good time and was there at 10.20am, so it ended up being an early lunch. 95 kms in 4 hours 45 minutes, my fastest travelling of the trip.    A couple of hours rest in Cooroy was great.  I thought a full body massage with extras may have been on the menu but had to make do with a chicken salad sandwich instead.

That left the last stint.  With a sniff of home and the wind at my back, the last 37 kms just flew past in about 93 minutes. A great finish to a great trip.

At this spot exactly one week ago.

Victorious 

Day 6 - Gayndah to Kilkivan

GDistance - 107 kms

Average Speed - 16.6km/hr

Ascent - 532 m

View the ride here: http://cyclemeter.com/4539622a02fdb662/Cycle-20131025-0539?r=x

The good news is that a cool change came through and it didn't feel any warmer than mid-20's at any time during the day.  The bad news was that the change came with a strong south-easterly that made a tough ride a bit longer.  6.5 hours in the saddle is a long time, especially when you already have sore jatz crackers.  On that subject, after several liberal applications of nappy rash cream over night and some minor seat adjustments,  things felt quite comfortable first up.  Became more painful with time but not as bad as yesterday.

Left about 5.30am.  There had been some rain overnight and was quite cool.  Today's route is uphill for the first 100 kms, undulating with 3 decent climbs thrown in.  Made good progress to Ban Ban Springs.  From there, the wind came up and was strong all day, the strongest of the trip so far.  I couldn't hold a big enough gear to get on top of it, so had to grind for about five hours.

The country changes noticeably approaching Tansey.  It's green and fertile, plenty of Lucerne and irrigation.  Looks to be 3 or 4 large feedlots as well.

The short cut from Tansey to Kilkivan is well used.  It was a combination of dirt, single lane bitumen, skinny two lane and new wide stuff.  Bit dangerous really, although most cars gave a wide berth.  Still a better option than going through to Goomeri, which adds another 25 kms.

Got in to Kilkivan and met a couple of fellas having a quiet beer and a fag on the pub verandah.  One dude had a big silver beard with those brown nicotine stains around his mouth.  Charming.  They told that the caravan park was 8 kms on and 6 kms off the main road.  I didn't think I had 14 kms left in me so decided to get a feed and think about it.  I went to the one and only eating establishment and found a Eûropean styled cafe and was served by a waiter with a very heavy German accent.  Well, he made the best chicken and tomato sandwich I've ever had. And in the middle of nowhere, who'd have thought? 

That's all the convincing I needed to stay at the pub.  Is owned by Fred Brophy (of the boxing troupe fame) and is a fantastic old building.  A bit like the Dululu pub but well maintained.  The raffle has jack potted to $350 so they are expecting a full house tonight.  I'll be asleep by 7, bugger it!

With 150 kms to go, wondering if I can knock that off tomorrow.

The Big Orange leaving Gayndah.  One less thing on my bucket list.

Ban Ban Springs.  Several campers and caravans staying overnight, top spot.

Across to the roadhouse from Ban Ban Springs

The top of the ride about 7 kms from Kilkivan.

Kilkivan pub

Verandah of Kilkivan pub. Splendid place for a beer.

German coffee shop in Kilkivan run by a fella with a very heavy European accent.   Great chicken and salad sandwich.

Day 5 - Munduberra to Gayndah

Distance - 46 kms

Average Speed - 16.2 km/hr

Ascent - 360 m

View the ride here:

http://cyclemeter.com/4539622a02fdb662/Cycle-20131024-0619?r=x

It is known by different names - the third nut, a mangina, some even call it the golden retreiver. Whatever you call it, a sore in the nether regions is a true pain in the butt.

A world if pain today.  F&@k my arse was sore.  Some sort of infection going on, I don't want to know.  Just as we'll a slow ride was planned, in and out of the saddle the entire time.

It was an uphill run for the first 30 kms.  From the top of the range, there were roadworks all the way to the bottom, basically an unsealed road.  The sign said 7%, maybe 6 kms, bike and trailer gets a bit loose at 60-70 kms/hr.  Fun though.

Gayndah is a pretty good place.  Queenslands oldest country town apparently.  Seems to be be affluence here, plenty of foreign workers.

Thankfully no riding this afternoon, 37 degrees which is probably 40 on the road. Storms forecast for this evening, hope not.  Cooler tomorrow.

Off to the chemist now to buy some potions for the undercarriage.

Binjour - the Burnett Highway is full of places like this.  This store closed a long time ago.  Remaining are 3 houses across the road and at least one friendly dog.

Lucerne under irrigation in the middle of nowhere.

The Burnett River from the bridge on way to town.

Campsite with a view.

Cheap local beef

Day 4 - Monto to Mundubbera

Distance - 109 km

Average Speed - 19.2 km/hr

Ascent - 486 m

View the ride here:

http://cyclemeter.com/4539622a02fdb662/Cycle-20131023-1308?r=x

and here:

http://cyclemeter.com/4539622a02fdb662/Cycle-20131023-1308?r=x

Today's ride as planned was quite easy - 77 kms and just a few hills.  Left about 7am, the hills were early and made good time.  Arrived at Eiisvold and was keen to keep going, but unsure how I would go after a hard day yesterday and now planning to travel during the hottest part of the day. So after a BLT sandwich and a power nap in the park, decided to stay and headed off to the camping ground. What a shithole.  

With that, I took off for Munduberra.  There were a few hills early but felt strong.  At about the 100 km mark, I overheated up a big hill and had to sit under a tree for half an hour to cool down.  No breeze and only hot water, it was 40 degrees on the road. Nice view from the top of the range though (see the photos).

Thankfully, that was the highest point on this leg and it was all downhill into Munduberra. 

I was beginning to wonder if anyone out here had heard of a sprinkler, this caravan park has plenty of them.  Pitching a tent on grass -  5 star.

A recovery day tomorrow.  Try and do this 45 kms easy, hopefully I haven't used up too much petrol today.

Had a good steak at the bottom pub, met up with a bloke who passed me on the road.

Only complaint is a rapidly deteriorating backside.

Leaving downtown Monto for Eidsvold.

Viable country

Mulgildie pub

View from the top of the range. You had to be there.

Photo taken not for the sign but the green grass.

Yep, real grass

Day 3 - Biloela to Monto

Distance - 96 kms

Average Speed - 17.7 km/hr

Ascent - 604 m

View the ride here:

http://cyclemeter.com/4539622a02fdb662/Cycle-20131022-0552?r=x

Anticipating a tough day with 3 climbs and 36 degrees (and not being very fit), the strategy was to get to the nasty bit (at about 75 kms) as quickly as possible, so no stops other than for water.

Left at about 5.45am after a breakfast of 4 litres of water and a banana . The first climb was ok, long but only a few degrees.  First water change at 60 kms and 3 hours 15 minutes . Feeling strong. Quite undulating but got to the base of the Monto Range in good nick.  

In my dreams, I got over all three climbs.  Wrong dream.  The second climb is long and sharp . Got about 1/3 rd the way up before having to hump.  Got back on about 2/3rds the way  up and battled over the top.  

The second climb is shorter, at 7 or 8 degrees , and then very sharp at the end.  Humped for the last 200 metres.

Views at the top are spectacular across to the Cania Gorge. Freewheeled for 7kms at 7%. I'm a chicken, braked all the way.

The landscape changed when over the range - cereal crops, irrigation and lakes ( or even a wetland).

Arrived at Monto at  12.15 pm .  If you haven't been there, you're not missing much.  But, the locals are friendly, the pies are good and the beer is cold.

Happy with an average of near 18 km/hr.  Roads are falling apart, especially the shoulders.

Easier day tomorrow, might even sleep in.  

Time now to hydrate at one of the pubs.

Thangool pub, about 10 kms south of Biloela.

Water! A bit anyway

IGA Monto, the place to be.

Cup of tea